Locks Restaurant on Windsor Terrace, Portobello, reopened about three weeks ago. This time it is operating under the auspices of the well established Pearl Brasserie.
We decided to try out the lunch menu yesterday. The set menu offered a starter and main course €19.50 for which is an excellent price for what we we were served. There were three starters and three main courses from which to select. I chose chicken parfait with homemade fig chutney and apple ‘sauce’. Himself had a duck ravioli with, I think, a butternut purée. It’s been quite a number of years since I ordered chicken liver pate or parfait and I was more than delighted with what I received. The parfait was light, creamy and melted in the mouth. And I really loved that it came with a thick cut toast made from bread that remained soft and firm while allowing me to spread the parfait easily and to eat it without being showered with toast crumbs.
For the main course I chose the daube of beef with celeriac. I cannot recall the exact menu description but I got a very generous portion and it came with small onions and matching sized mushrooms. The celeriac was a cream/purée serving and was a divine combination with the beef. Himself had roast chicken and chicken confit. I regret to say I didn’t pay too much attention to the description of this menu item but I tasted the chicken and it was lovely. We also ordered sides of french beans with garlic and, ahem, chips. My partner isn’t a great man for eating vegetables and green/french beans or amongst the most hated on his list. But he still tried one …then another and another. Clearly some magic was at work. The chips were thin which I personally don’t like as it makes me think of American fast food. I tried one and found the texture, taste and crunchiness were all fine but there was too much preloaded salt for my taste.
The third item on the main course menu was salmon and the lady at an adjacent table was almost orgasmic with the pleasure she dervived from it. We noticed another nearby couple ordering from the cheese board. As it happened we could see how their board was building up but it was hidden from their line of vision. They saw our eyes grew wider in amazement and they asked how us how the board looked. Because the portions were so generous I asked if it was for one or two people. They laughed and said it was just for one. I’ll definitely try the cheeseboard the next time we go.
We finished up with two excellent americanos which were served with very tasty home-made (or is that restaurant-made?) chocolates.
All in all this was a wonderful way to spend a Saturday lunchtime. I’d recommend it and I’ll definitely be back.
The view from Locks is lovely in early Autumn. This photo I found on the web does it some justice.